Fashion as a Movement

• The Age of Collaboration: There have become a lot of collaborations within industries, such as Apple and Burberry, to create a cool, and other industry specialistic work. There is a lot of Fashion with Tech, Film, Music, which has enabled brands to really push publicity as well as almost rebranding themselves. 
• Avoiding Mega-Systems: Amazon, Google, Starbucks, Armani, Doche and Gabbana, Apple – all of these do not pay tax, which means that they have a different company which has a much lower tax, so that they only have to pay the smaller amount of Tax to allow them to wiggle their way out of paying. The Irish and Dutch Government are known for helping the lowering of Tax within companies. 
• Digital Craft:  The online experience has to now appear like magic; the Gucci Store in Milan, and the Burberry Store in Regent Street are an example of this. 

Punk

When you have an object, or a piece of clothing, a haircut, which has a very specific meaning within an industry. Vivienne Westwood created a t-shirt in the 70’s with a Swastika and with Christ hanging upside down on a t-shirt, which is so offensive to each. This is very commonly found within a country where disposable income is high. The youth of today have become very aware that there is a lot of pressure, and a lot of power with what you wear now, and the way you present yourself. Meaning that offensive and outrageous clothing has become very limited, as people are aware of the lack of money that is available now, and the fact that industries are very key to look at the whole image.

Also, within this culture, there is a lot of pressure from the media and what is acceptable within this day and age, however in the 70’s there was a much more independent look on fashion. Constantly different sub groups of fashion and independent styles are pushed by the media, there is a norm which is therefore created within the industry and what the youth of this age wear. Social media also has such an impact, and we also absorb and look over different fashion styles, such as customisation or hand making outfits like it used to, and instead we look at the high streets, music, celebrities and what is considered acceptable and fashionable to style ourselves.

POLITICS OF FASHION

In the 80’s people would spray your coats and jackets with spray paints as it was so frowned upon; it is something that people are constantly questioning. Leather is another, although it is within the food market too, big cats like tigers, leopards are not considered acceptable within this day and age; and a lot of magazines and boutiques will not touch it. Prada this year have focused on fox fur, which is being looked at in great detail with the Anti Fur Lobby and cosmetic testing. Within the UK, there are no fur farms, and there are no large fur creations within the UK, however it is still large in Europe and other countries abroad. 

An 18th Century Man of Fashion, within the fashion industry there is a stigma, which has been around for 200 years is for men who are too groomed and too into fashion for what is seen acceptable. A Macaroni is someone who pays too much attention to themselves, too much styling and fashion incorporated within one look, has its own term within the industry. Within the industry there is a lot of Social Conditioning, of what is said, and what is acceptable; this is very interesting and something which is looked at and studied very closely within the industry.

Break Through in Fashion

In 1966, there was a new face on British Vogue’s cover on the March Issue; Donyale Luna. She was the first American black model and actress to be seen in the lime light; she was shot by David Bailey, one of the largest photographers of the time. Because she was such an inspiration and a new life for the fashion industry and the world of modelling, she created and opened a door to other black women aspiring to have their say in the industry. She enabled models such as Naomi Sims, Iman and Naomi Campbell to become an inspiration to the younger generation. Donyale Luna will always be remembered and inspired by those who knew her, as well as those whose lives she has opened up. She was described as:

“A new heavenly body who, because of her striking singularity, promises to remain on high for many a season. Donyale Luna, as she calls herself, is unquestionably the hottest model in Europe at the moment.”

MEN IN FASHION

Commonly, many of us mistake fashion as something that is aimed predominately at women, however, although there is such a large, undeveloped and exciting market still to be discovered. However, it is known that Men are not seen to follow the catwalks and the up and coming trends as women, instead of looking at the head designers and high fashion. Instead, it has been proven that when Men are looking at fashion, they focus on the celebrities which are selling them the fashion and products, as well as looking at them to teach them about the upcoming trends and what to do. Films, music, fashion and celebrities all play a massive part within the fashion industry and the way Men see fashion as a whole. 

When Pierce Brosnan was James Bond back in 1995, Pierce has a full chest and stomach of hair, as back then that was exactly what was commonly found within the audiences. However, the last James Bond film with Daniel Craig in 2013, the actor was completely hair less on his chest and stomach, as times have changed and what is now seen as desirable has manipulated over time.

All walks – Beyond the Catwalk

Three innovative, creative and very ambitions ladies within the fashion industry in 2012 created a way of showcasing the work of ‘8 cutting-edge designers on a 8 professional models aged between 18-65 and size 8-16, as a celebration of individuality and diversity.’

‘The All Walks mission is simple: to expand upon the imagery coming out of our industry and mirror a more realistic range of women, in age, size, race and appearance than fashion standards currently offer. We also challenge growing hyper-sexualisation of young women in fashion. The All Walks brand asks all fashion practitioners new and old to consider their own viewpoint on moral and ethical boundaries believing that positive messaging around self-esteem fro young women and men is crucial.’

Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and Erin O’Connor created All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. Franklin is a Fashion Commentator and broadcaster within the industry, O’Connor, the Model of the Sanctury and Bourne, a fashion consultant and former PR director at the company Lynne Franks. They set out  and recruited a team of casting agents, film directors, leading style magazines, printers and make up artists to create this project. 

THE BIG 4

There are four main Fashion Weeks which happen during the Fashion Calendar Year; Paris, Milan, London and New York. Paris is the capital of Fashion, and always shows first from the Couture collections, and almost 2 months before the ready to wear starts. Milan is a very wealthy fashion week, and has become one of the wealthiest country within the fashion industry. New York has always, and will always be very organised, polished and well thought of. Then, London is commonly still seen creative, young and innovative; however has a problem with price, large labels such as Dior have three shows: buyers, private clients, then the media. After the fashion weeks, there are then showrooms, which can be booked, where their garments can be bought.

The Dior Narrative

When looking into the narrative and the dream behind Diorissimo, there are many connotations which jump out of the product, and for me there is a very strong story which unveils. Dior is an incredibly sophisticated and well developed brand, which enables a strong sense of control within the brand; however for me, the dior fragrances are more than just smells, they work together in synergy to create a family like feel. J’adore, Miss Dior and Les Creations de Monsieur Dior are three sisters, and when you unravel the product identify within each fragrance you gain an understanding of the audience, smell, bottle aesthetics, and the feel of the perfume. These factors enable the consumer to learn more about where the product fits within the Dior Fragrance ‘family’. 

J’adore is a very sleek, sexual perfume, which is incredibly feminine and independent. The woman behind the fragrance is heavily beautiful and someone how has confidence within herself, she knows what she wants and how she is going to get it. This very confident and forward figure which appears in the family of Dior is an older sister, and is a well loved, appreciated yet strong smell, and is well developed to the perfect amount.

Next you have Miss Dior, who is the youngest of the three, sisters within the Dior fragrance family; she is cheeky, flirty and incredibly girls; the smell is flowery and pink which is displayed strongly within the packaging colour and bow on the lid. Miss Dior is the youngest and although she is confident in herself she has changes to make to herself, and is giggly. If she were to be drawn, she would too be very beautiful, but younger, and she is fun; which is the most important element which can be taken from the fragrance.

Finally you have the strong family of Les Creations de Monsieur Dior, which are almost the cousins of the Dior family, as they themselves make up 6 of the Dior fragrances, meaning there is a strong bond and collection within the brand. Diorissimo, Diorella, Dioressence and Diorling are almost quadruplets, the smells and the looks which carry the Dior fragrance forward are so similar, the bottle shapes are all identical and the look and feel which can be captured from the fragrance are identical. 

I personally see Diorissimo as an interesting family member within the fragrance market. The bottle itself is very bland, there is very little shape and outstanding factor of the bottle, however this inputs an element of mystery within the product, implying that Dior may have put all their efforts into the smell and left the packaging and bottle plain to allow a sense of the unknown into the product. The sell is so floral and fruity, almost a younger smell, however it was one of the first created which leaves the element of surprise when the scent is smelt as you see the movement behind the smell throughout the years. The Diorissimo woman is incredibly elegant yet simplistic, it leaves a lot to the imagination and allows a true mystical element to her; she too would be incredibly beautiful, old fashioned in her beliefs yet her rebranding makes her young in age. In my opinion, Diorissimo is the most interesting of the Dior Fragrance Collection, and although she isn’t the most famous, this adds the element of surprise to her, which is her unique selling point within the market. 

Intellectual Properties

This part of the fashion industry is vital to the way the business works. Without legal obligations and limitations the industry would be incredibly different. Intellectual Property right are the legally recognised ruled which have to be followed. It included copyright, patents, trademarks and trade secrets; which are all in turn personal and unique to different companies and the work ethics set. Within a company, patent is key to success; it grants the inventor the right to get rid of others from the making, selling and importing of fashion. Intellectual Properties are what keeps fashion a fast moving, and high earning business; and it is vital to understanding the way the companies work.

Fashion Monitor – MY profession

When looking deeper into the fashion industry, and the promotional aspects within the business, I have realised that not only is there such a range of available jobs, but they have come so far, and developed so much over the years! This therefore leads me to believe that although I have an idea of a job at the end of my degree, the fast moving industry may therefore have a more in-depth and up to date position instead; which is in fact incredibly exciting.

Looking into my profession is something which I find so interesting, yet due to the amount of jobs, and the development of the existing ones, I have to be incredible careful to be open and willing to change with the industry, therefore looking at an exact job can be hard, but using Fashion Monitor has enabled me to look at what is current, and possible jobs I would find myself working in within the next 5 years. This has enabled me to look in more depth at the industry, as well as myself and what I want to get out of the fashion industry, and where I will be able to leave my stamp.

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